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museum exhibitions calendar_today Thursday, April 30, 2026

And We Shall Go Through Their Hills Without Much Delay

This article documents three journeys into and out of Yunnan, China, spanning from 1874 to 2023. It begins with British interpreter Augustus Raymond Margary's failed colonial expedition to establish a trade route, which ended in his violent death and contributed to unequal treaties opening Southwest China. It then follows a Naxi student named Xueshan in 1937, whose railway journey introduced modern timekeeping to the region, and finally describes the construction of the Burma Road, a critical WWII supply route. The narrative concludes with the artist Cheng Xinhao retracing these routes on foot from Kunming toward Burma over a year and a half, reflecting on history, bodily experience, and the layers of infrastructure that have reshaped the landscape.

Why it matters: The article matters because it uses personal journeys and historical events to explore how colonialism, modernization, and war have transformed Yunnan's geography and culture. By weaving together Margary's colonial ambitions, the Naxi student's encounter with modernity, and the artist's contemporary walking project, it highlights the enduring impact of infrastructure and power on local communities. Cheng Xinhao's artistic practice—based on long-term field studies and polyphonic narratives—offers a critical lens for understanding how history, nature, and society intersect in Southwest China, making this relevant to discussions of postcolonial art, land art, and the politics of memory.