Wilson W. Smith III, Nike's first Black designer and a 41-year veteran of the company, retired this winter and gave one of his first interviews to CULTURED. Smith, who designed shoes for Michael Jordan, Andre Agassi, Roger Federer, and Serena Williams, began his career as an architect at Skidmore, Owings & Merrill before moving into shoe design under Tinker Hatfield in 1985. He reflects on his journey from architecture to footwear, his early projects like the Nike factory store in North Portland, and his role in shaping iconic sneakers such as the Air More Uptempo and the Air Alarm for Agassi.
This interview matters because it sheds light on a previously underrecognized figure in athletic footwear history, highlighting the intersection of architecture and sneaker design. Smith's story also underscores Nike's dominance in the 1980s and 1990s and the broader cultural significance of sneaker design, especially as the Portland Art Museum honored him during the inaugural Sneaker Week. His retirement marks the end of an era for a designer who helped shape the visual identity of modern athletic shoes.